Abstract
The objective of this study is to provide a semi-empirical theory of nearshore currents due to breaking waves in the presence of a shore-connected breakwater or an offshore breakwater. In particular, the effects of diffraction are studied in addition to refraction by shoaling waters. The concept of radiation stresses applied to uniform longshore current and rip currents forms the starting point of the theory. Many empirical relations invoked with regard to the surf zone are similar to, and extrapolations of, the ones used in related recent works.
Original language | English |
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Journal | MIT Dep Civ Eng Ralph M, Parsons Lab Water Resour Hydrodyn Rep |
Issue number | 192 |
Publication status | Published - 1974 |
All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes
- General Engineering