Experimental and Lagrangian modeling of nonlinear water waves propagation on a sloping bottom

Meng Syue Li, Yang Yih Chen, Hung Chu Hsu, A. Torres-Freyermuth

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

7 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

This paper presents an experimental and theoretical investigation of nonlinear water wave propagation over a sloping bed. Firstly, a series of monochromatic wave laboratory experiments were performed in order to measure the particle trajectories, evolution of wave profile, and wave phase velocity as wave propagates on a sloping bottom. The particle trajectories are quantified by means of images from a high speed camera, whereas the evolution of wave profile and variation of wave phase velocity are measured by a wave gauge array. Subsequently, the free-surface elevation, phase velocity, particle trajectories, and breaking wave height are estimated using a Lagrangian nonlinear wave transformation model. Model predictions show a reasonable agreement with experimental data.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)36-48
Number of pages13
JournalOcean Engineering
Volume64
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 2013 Apr 2
Externally publishedYes

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • Environmental Engineering
  • Ocean Engineering

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