Expert-based customized pattern-making automation: Part II. Dart design

Purpose - Based on the knowledge of professional pattern makers, this paper aims to propose an expert-based automation technique of darts generation by aligning and drawing close meshes in basic pattern in Part I. Single dart development, such as waist-fitting dart, shoulder dart, armscye dart, side dart, and their select combination are also presented. Design/methodology/approach - In this paper, 3D garment surface is first approximated by a finite number of meshes. Patterns are developed by aligning and rotating of the flattened meshes under the constraint of overlay avoidance. The envelop areas between the developed patterns and the curved surface are dramatically reduced from 5 percent of basic pattern to below 3 percent after darts development. Findings - The development patterns are varied in their association with the subject's body figures and the designed garment. Darts in a different location can reduce the total area difference between the flattening undevelopable surface and the original curved surface. Research limitations/implications - At the present stage the pattern development method cannot guarantee the uniqueness of pattern outline. Moreover, the pattern maker's knowledge inputs in this paper can only apply to the subject whose waist girth is less than hip girth in circumference. Originality/value - The embedded pattern maker knowledge provides certain rules for pattern development from 3D design. Moreover, it is practical to be used and exported to modern 2D pattern software for further editing and revision. The same person is also used as a model after the patterns have been sewn into clothes.