Infra-gravity wave generation by the shoaling wave groups over beaches

Yu-Hsien Lin, Hwung Hweng Hwung

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

6 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

A physical parameter, μb, which was used to meet the forcing of primary short waves to be off-resonant before wave breaking, has been considered as an applicable parameter in the infra-gravity wave generation. Since a series of modulating wave groups for different wave conditions are performed to proceed with the resonant mechanism of infragravity waves prior to wave breaking, the amplitude growth of incident bound long wave is assumed to be simply controlled by the normalized bed slope, βb. The results appear a large dependence of the growth rate, α, of incident bound long wave, separated by the three-array method, on the normalized bed slope, βb. High spatial resolution of wave records enables identification of the cross-correlation between squared short-wave envelopes and infra-gravity waves. The cross-shore structure of infra-gravity waves over beaches presents the mechanics of incident bound- and outgoing free long waves with the formation of free standing long waves in the nearshore region. The wave run-up and amplification of infra-gravity waves in the swash zone appear that the additional long waves generated by the breaking process would modify the cross-shore structure of free standing long waves. Finally, this paper would further discuss the contribution of long wave breaking and bottom friction to the energy dissipation of infra-gravity waves based on different slope conditions.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)1-18
Number of pages18
JournalChina Ocean Engineering
Volume26
Issue number1
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 2012 Mar 1

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • Oceanography
  • Renewable Energy, Sustainability and the Environment
  • Ocean Engineering
  • Mechanical Engineering

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