Lagrangian experiment and solution for progressive gravity waves on a sloping bottom

Yang Yih Chen, Meng-Syue Li, Hung Chu Hsu

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingConference contribution

Abstract

A third-order asymptotic solution in Lagrangian description for nonlinear water wave propagating over a sloping beach is derived. The particle trajectories are obtained as a function of the nonlinear ordering parameter ε and the bottom slope α to the third order of perturbation. This solution enables the description of wave shoaling in the direction of wave propagation from deep to shallow water, as well as the successive deformation of wave profiles and water particle trajectories prior to breaking. A series of experiment are conducted to investigate the particle trajectories of nonlinear water wave propagating over a sloping bottom. It is shown that the present third-order asymptotic solution agrees very well with the experiments.

Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationProceedings of the 21st (2011) International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE-2011
Pages841-846
Number of pages6
Publication statusPublished - 2011 Sep 19
Externally publishedYes
Event21st International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE-2011 - Maui, HI, United States
Duration: 2011 Jun 192011 Jun 24

Publication series

NameProceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference
ISSN (Print)1098-6189
ISSN (Electronic)1555-1792

Other

Other21st International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE-2011
CountryUnited States
CityMaui, HI
Period11-06-1911-06-24

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • Energy Engineering and Power Technology
  • Ocean Engineering
  • Mechanical Engineering

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