Numerical simulation of wave transformation across the surf zone over a steep bottom

Yuan Jyh Lan; Yu Shu Kuo; Tai Wen Hsu; Ta Yuan Lin

doi:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2011.12.003

Numerical simulation of wave transformation across the surf zone over a steep bottom

Yuan Jyh Lan, Yu Shu Kuo, Tai Wen Hsu, Ta Yuan Lin

Department of Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering

Research output: Contribution to journal › Article › peer-review

1 Citation (Scopus)

Abstract

The combined effect of wave shoaling, breaking and energy dissipation on a steep sloping bottom was developed. Based on the conservation principle of wave motion, a combined shoaling and bottom slope coefficient is included in the mild-slope equation (MSE), which is derived as a function of the bottom slope perturbed to the third-order. The model incorporates the nonlinear shoaling coefficient and energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the numerical simulation prior to wave breaking and in the surf zone over a steep bottom. The model validity is verified by comparison with laboratory experiments for waves traveling over two steep sloping beaches and a bar/step-type beach profile.

Original language	English
Pages (from-to)	33-38
Number of pages	6
Journal	Ocean Engineering
Volume	41
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2011.12.003
Publication status	Published - 2012 Feb

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

Environmental Engineering
Ocean Engineering

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10.1016/j.oceaneng.2011.12.003

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title = "Numerical simulation of wave transformation across the surf zone over a steep bottom",

abstract = "The combined effect of wave shoaling, breaking and energy dissipation on a steep sloping bottom was developed. Based on the conservation principle of wave motion, a combined shoaling and bottom slope coefficient is included in the mild-slope equation (MSE), which is derived as a function of the bottom slope perturbed to the third-order. The model incorporates the nonlinear shoaling coefficient and energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the numerical simulation prior to wave breaking and in the surf zone over a steep bottom. The model validity is verified by comparison with laboratory experiments for waves traveling over two steep sloping beaches and a bar/step-type beach profile.",

author = "Lan, {Yuan Jyh} and Kuo, {Yu Shu} and Hsu, {Tai Wen} and Lin, {Ta Yuan}",

year = "2012",

month = feb,

doi = "10.1016/j.oceaneng.2011.12.003",

language = "English",

volume = "41",

pages = "33--38",

journal = "Ocean Engineering",

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T1 - Numerical simulation of wave transformation across the surf zone over a steep bottom

AU - Lan, Yuan Jyh

AU - Kuo, Yu Shu

AU - Hsu, Tai Wen

AU - Lin, Ta Yuan

PY - 2012/2

Y1 - 2012/2

N2 - The combined effect of wave shoaling, breaking and energy dissipation on a steep sloping bottom was developed. Based on the conservation principle of wave motion, a combined shoaling and bottom slope coefficient is included in the mild-slope equation (MSE), which is derived as a function of the bottom slope perturbed to the third-order. The model incorporates the nonlinear shoaling coefficient and energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the numerical simulation prior to wave breaking and in the surf zone over a steep bottom. The model validity is verified by comparison with laboratory experiments for waves traveling over two steep sloping beaches and a bar/step-type beach profile.

AB - The combined effect of wave shoaling, breaking and energy dissipation on a steep sloping bottom was developed. Based on the conservation principle of wave motion, a combined shoaling and bottom slope coefficient is included in the mild-slope equation (MSE), which is derived as a function of the bottom slope perturbed to the third-order. The model incorporates the nonlinear shoaling coefficient and energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the numerical simulation prior to wave breaking and in the surf zone over a steep bottom. The model validity is verified by comparison with laboratory experiments for waves traveling over two steep sloping beaches and a bar/step-type beach profile.

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UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/citedby.url?scp=84856416635&partnerID=8YFLogxK

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DO - 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2011.12.003

M3 - Article

AN - SCOPUS:84856416635

SN - 0029-8018

VL - 41

SP - 33

EP - 38

JO - Ocean Engineering

JF - Ocean Engineering

ER -

Numerical simulation of wave transformation across the surf zone over a steep bottom

Abstract

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