Occurrence probability of freak waves in nonlinear wave field

Leng Hsuan Tseng, Dong-Jiing Doong, Chia Chuen Kao

Research output: Contribution to conferencePaper

Abstract

Freak wave is an extreme phenomenon of waves and may cause damage to seaman or people who live or act at coastal area or in the sea. It is essential to predict its probability by stochastic approach since the mechanism of freak wave occurrence is still not fully understood. Nonlinear assumption is used to describe the ocean waves in the field in this study. Derivation of occurrence probability proposed by Mori and Janssen [1] is reported. Long-term and continuous wave data measured at Northern Taiwan waters are used to verify the theoretical result. The result shows the occurrence probability of freak wave in nonlinear wave field is higher than Gaussian Sea and proportional to the kurtosis of sea surface elevation. The comparison shows good agreement between theoretical derivation with field data when kurtosis is small. In addition, the relationship between kurtosis and BFI is established. BFI is derived from spectrum that is the output of numerical wave modeling. This means the prediction of probability of freak wave occurrence is possible estimated from wave model.

Original languageEnglish
Pages69-74
Number of pages6
Publication statusPublished - 2012 Jan 1
Event6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012 - Keelung, Taiwan
Duration: 2012 Sep 232012 Sep 29

Other

Other6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012
CountryTaiwan
CityKeelung
Period12-09-2312-09-29

Fingerprint

nonlinear wave
wave field
wave modeling
ocean wave
Water waves
sea surface
damage
prediction

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • Ocean Engineering
  • Water Science and Technology

Cite this

Tseng, L. H., Doong, D-J., & Kao, C. C. (2012). Occurrence probability of freak waves in nonlinear wave field. 69-74. Paper presented at 6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012, Keelung, Taiwan.
Tseng, Leng Hsuan ; Doong, Dong-Jiing ; Kao, Chia Chuen. / Occurrence probability of freak waves in nonlinear wave field. Paper presented at 6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012, Keelung, Taiwan.6 p.
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Tseng, LH, Doong, D-J & Kao, CC 2012, 'Occurrence probability of freak waves in nonlinear wave field' Paper presented at 6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012, Keelung, Taiwan, 12-09-23 - 12-09-29, pp. 69-74.

Occurrence probability of freak waves in nonlinear wave field. / Tseng, Leng Hsuan; Doong, Dong-Jiing; Kao, Chia Chuen.

2012. 69-74 Paper presented at 6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012, Keelung, Taiwan.

Research output: Contribution to conferencePaper

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AU - Doong, Dong-Jiing

AU - Kao, Chia Chuen

PY - 2012/1/1

Y1 - 2012/1/1

N2 - Freak wave is an extreme phenomenon of waves and may cause damage to seaman or people who live or act at coastal area or in the sea. It is essential to predict its probability by stochastic approach since the mechanism of freak wave occurrence is still not fully understood. Nonlinear assumption is used to describe the ocean waves in the field in this study. Derivation of occurrence probability proposed by Mori and Janssen [1] is reported. Long-term and continuous wave data measured at Northern Taiwan waters are used to verify the theoretical result. The result shows the occurrence probability of freak wave in nonlinear wave field is higher than Gaussian Sea and proportional to the kurtosis of sea surface elevation. The comparison shows good agreement between theoretical derivation with field data when kurtosis is small. In addition, the relationship between kurtosis and BFI is established. BFI is derived from spectrum that is the output of numerical wave modeling. This means the prediction of probability of freak wave occurrence is possible estimated from wave model.

AB - Freak wave is an extreme phenomenon of waves and may cause damage to seaman or people who live or act at coastal area or in the sea. It is essential to predict its probability by stochastic approach since the mechanism of freak wave occurrence is still not fully understood. Nonlinear assumption is used to describe the ocean waves in the field in this study. Derivation of occurrence probability proposed by Mori and Janssen [1] is reported. Long-term and continuous wave data measured at Northern Taiwan waters are used to verify the theoretical result. The result shows the occurrence probability of freak wave in nonlinear wave field is higher than Gaussian Sea and proportional to the kurtosis of sea surface elevation. The comparison shows good agreement between theoretical derivation with field data when kurtosis is small. In addition, the relationship between kurtosis and BFI is established. BFI is derived from spectrum that is the output of numerical wave modeling. This means the prediction of probability of freak wave occurrence is possible estimated from wave model.

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Tseng LH, Doong D-J, Kao CC. Occurrence probability of freak waves in nonlinear wave field. 2012. Paper presented at 6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012, Keelung, Taiwan.