On the evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on a mild sloping beach

Shih Chun Hsiao; Tai Wen Hsu; Ting Chieh Lin; Yu Hsuan Chang

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.03.002

On the evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on a mild sloping beach

Shih Chun Hsiao, Tai Wen Hsu, Ting Chieh Lin, Yu Hsuan Chang

Research output: Contribution to journal › Article › peer-review

117 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

This paper presents new laboratory experiments carried out in a supertank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m) of breaking solitary waves evolution on a 1:60 plane beach. The measured data are employed to re-examine existing formulae that include breaking criterion, amplitude evolution and run-up height. The properties of shoreline motion, underwater particle velocity and scale effect on run-up height are briefly discussed. Based on our analyses, it is evidently found that there exist five zones during a wave amplitude evolution course on the present mild slope. A simple formula which is capable of predicting maximum run-up height for a breaking solitary wave on a uniform beach with a wide range of beach slope (1:15-1:60) is also proposed. The calculated results from the present model agree favorably with available laboratory data, indicating that our method is compatible with other predictive models.

Original language	English
Pages (from-to)	975-988
Number of pages	14
Journal	Coastal Engineering
Volume	55
Issue number	12
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.03.002
Publication status	Published - 2008 Dec

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

Environmental Engineering
Ocean Engineering

Access to Document

10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.03.002

Cite this

@article{e4e691e539924556a346e981df9757c0,

title = "On the evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on a mild sloping beach",

abstract = "This paper presents new laboratory experiments carried out in a supertank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m) of breaking solitary waves evolution on a 1:60 plane beach. The measured data are employed to re-examine existing formulae that include breaking criterion, amplitude evolution and run-up height. The properties of shoreline motion, underwater particle velocity and scale effect on run-up height are briefly discussed. Based on our analyses, it is evidently found that there exist five zones during a wave amplitude evolution course on the present mild slope. A simple formula which is capable of predicting maximum run-up height for a breaking solitary wave on a uniform beach with a wide range of beach slope (1:15-1:60) is also proposed. The calculated results from the present model agree favorably with available laboratory data, indicating that our method is compatible with other predictive models.",

author = "Hsiao, {Shih Chun} and Hsu, {Tai Wen} and Lin, {Ting Chieh} and Chang, {Yu Hsuan}",

note = "Funding Information: We gratefully acknowledge the research staff of Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory for their great assistance to conduct elaborate experiments. The financial supports provided by the Ministry of Education, Taiwan for the Program for Promoting Academic Excellence of Universities under grant no. C-031, the National Science Council, Taiwan under grant no. NSC96-2628-E006-249-MY3 are of high appreciation. We deeply thank Dr. Hughes of US Army Engineer Research and Department Center for his great support of the measured run-up data about 1:30 slope to this research. The comments and suggestions from anonymous reviewers are also highly appreciated.",

year = "2008",

month = dec,

doi = "10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.03.002",

language = "English",

volume = "55",

pages = "975--988",

journal = "Coastal Engineering",

issn = "0378-3839",

publisher = "Elsevier",

number = "12",

}

TY - JOUR

T1 - On the evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on a mild sloping beach

AU - Hsiao, Shih Chun

AU - Hsu, Tai Wen

AU - Lin, Ting Chieh

AU - Chang, Yu Hsuan

N1 - Funding Information: We gratefully acknowledge the research staff of Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory for their great assistance to conduct elaborate experiments. The financial supports provided by the Ministry of Education, Taiwan for the Program for Promoting Academic Excellence of Universities under grant no. C-031, the National Science Council, Taiwan under grant no. NSC96-2628-E006-249-MY3 are of high appreciation. We deeply thank Dr. Hughes of US Army Engineer Research and Department Center for his great support of the measured run-up data about 1:30 slope to this research. The comments and suggestions from anonymous reviewers are also highly appreciated.

PY - 2008/12

Y1 - 2008/12

N2 - This paper presents new laboratory experiments carried out in a supertank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m) of breaking solitary waves evolution on a 1:60 plane beach. The measured data are employed to re-examine existing formulae that include breaking criterion, amplitude evolution and run-up height. The properties of shoreline motion, underwater particle velocity and scale effect on run-up height are briefly discussed. Based on our analyses, it is evidently found that there exist five zones during a wave amplitude evolution course on the present mild slope. A simple formula which is capable of predicting maximum run-up height for a breaking solitary wave on a uniform beach with a wide range of beach slope (1:15-1:60) is also proposed. The calculated results from the present model agree favorably with available laboratory data, indicating that our method is compatible with other predictive models.

AB - This paper presents new laboratory experiments carried out in a supertank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m) of breaking solitary waves evolution on a 1:60 plane beach. The measured data are employed to re-examine existing formulae that include breaking criterion, amplitude evolution and run-up height. The properties of shoreline motion, underwater particle velocity and scale effect on run-up height are briefly discussed. Based on our analyses, it is evidently found that there exist five zones during a wave amplitude evolution course on the present mild slope. A simple formula which is capable of predicting maximum run-up height for a breaking solitary wave on a uniform beach with a wide range of beach slope (1:15-1:60) is also proposed. The calculated results from the present model agree favorably with available laboratory data, indicating that our method is compatible with other predictive models.

UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=56349090863&partnerID=8YFLogxK

UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/citedby.url?scp=56349090863&partnerID=8YFLogxK

U2 - 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.03.002

DO - 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.03.002

M3 - Article

AN - SCOPUS:56349090863

SN - 0378-3839

VL - 55

SP - 975

EP - 988

JO - Coastal Engineering

JF - Coastal Engineering

IS - 12

ER -

On the evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on a mild sloping beach

Abstract

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

Access to Document

Other files and links

Fingerprint

Cite this