Simulations of rogue waves in coastal waters

Effects of variable bathymetry

A. Sergeeva, Dong-Jiing Doong, E. Pelinovsky, T. Talipova, A. Slunyaev

Research output: Contribution to conferencePaper

Abstract

The transformation of random wave field in the shallow water of variable depth is analyzed theoretically within the framework of the variable-coefficient Korteweg - de Vries equation. The characteristic wave height varies with depth according to Green's law, and this follows rigorously from the theoretical model. The skewness and kurtosis are computed, and it is shown that they grow when the depth decreases, and simultaneously the wave state deviates from the Gaussian. The probability of large-amplitude (rogue) waves increases within the transition zone. The characteristics of this process depend on the wave steepness, which is characterized in terms of the Ursell parameter. The obtained results show that the number of rogue waves may deviate significantly from the value expected for a flat bottom of a given depth. Evolution of waves propagating onshore is studied by means of numerical simulations of two different depth-dependent models. The depth and wave conditions correspond to buoys situated in the vicinity of Taiwanese coast, and records of rogue waves retrieved by them. The simulations inform about the change of wave appearance while they approach the coast, evolution of spectral and statistical characteristics. The reconstruction helps to answer the essential question about the lifetime of rogue waves; this is a poorly studied issue, which desires particular study with use of natural data. The paper reports preliminary results of this investigation.

Original languageEnglish
Pages481-497
Number of pages17
Publication statusPublished - 2012 Jan 1
Event6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012 - Keelung, Taiwan
Duration: 2012 Sep 232012 Sep 29

Other

Other6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012
CountryTaiwan
CityKeelung
Period12-09-2312-09-29

Fingerprint

Bathymetry
bathymetry
coastal water
simulation
Water
Coastal zones
random wave
effect
coast
Korteweg-de Vries equation
skewness
Buoys
wave height
wave field
transition zone
shallow water

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • Ocean Engineering
  • Water Science and Technology

Cite this

Sergeeva, A., Doong, D-J., Pelinovsky, E., Talipova, T., & Slunyaev, A. (2012). Simulations of rogue waves in coastal waters: Effects of variable bathymetry. 481-497. Paper presented at 6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012, Keelung, Taiwan.
Sergeeva, A. ; Doong, Dong-Jiing ; Pelinovsky, E. ; Talipova, T. ; Slunyaev, A. / Simulations of rogue waves in coastal waters : Effects of variable bathymetry. Paper presented at 6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012, Keelung, Taiwan.17 p.
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Sergeeva, A, Doong, D-J, Pelinovsky, E, Talipova, T & Slunyaev, A 2012, 'Simulations of rogue waves in coastal waters: Effects of variable bathymetry' Paper presented at 6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012, Keelung, Taiwan, 12-09-23 - 12-09-29, pp. 481-497.

Simulations of rogue waves in coastal waters : Effects of variable bathymetry. / Sergeeva, A.; Doong, Dong-Jiing; Pelinovsky, E.; Talipova, T.; Slunyaev, A.

2012. 481-497 Paper presented at 6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012, Keelung, Taiwan.

Research output: Contribution to conferencePaper

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Sergeeva A, Doong D-J, Pelinovsky E, Talipova T, Slunyaev A. Simulations of rogue waves in coastal waters: Effects of variable bathymetry. 2012. Paper presented at 6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012, Keelung, Taiwan.