Transformation and breaking of irregular waves on very gentle slopes

Yucheng Li, Lifang Cui, Yang Yu, Guohai Dong, Chiachuen Kao, Zsuhsin Chuang

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

5 Citations (Scopus)


Based on theoretical analysis, numerical calculation, and experimental study, this paper discusses breaker indices of irregular waves, transformation of wave spectrum, characteristics and computation of breaking waves, as well as the critical beach slope under which waves will not break. Computed results are in good agreement with laboratory physical model test data and ocean wave field measurements.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)261-278
Number of pages18
JournalChina Ocean Engineering
Issue number3
Publication statusPublished - 2000 Dec 1

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • Oceanography
  • Renewable Energy, Sustainability and the Environment
  • Ocean Engineering
  • Mechanical Engineering


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