Assessment of Marine Conditions on Surfing - A Case Study of Honeymoon Bay, Yilan

  • 賴 振銘

Student thesis: Master's Thesis


Waves are the most important aspect for any surfing location; however, Taiwan's government and relevant authorities have yet to provide the necessary integrated information regarding waves for surfing. Taiwan's northeast coast is an important surfing location. This study focuses on Honeymoon Bay, a well-known surfing location in this region, as well as investigates a variety of surfing information sources and compares their differences. Possible wave characteristics due to seasonal changes and approaching typhoons are also discussed to serve as a reference for a future surfing safety information network. The sources of wave information in this study were mainly visual observation data collected by a surf shop, measurements taken by a metoceandata buoy, and the 3-day fishery and blue highway weather forecasts from the Central Weather Bureau (CWB).
Results indicated an observed differential between the surf shop’ visual observations and the wave heights measured by buoys. When the wave height was smaller and the wave period was shorter, the wave heights recorded from visual observations were often greater than the buoy measurements. However, when the wave height was ≥175cm and the wave period was ≥5.5s during autumn and winter, the accuracy of visual observations decreased. Also, as the wave height and period increased, the wave heights from visual observations were lower than that from buoys. As such, buoy data should be used as the primary reference. The largest disparity in the wave heights was seen with the CWB's 3-day fishery forecast in comparison with the visual observations and buoy data. The difference between the CWB's blue highway forecasts and the visual observations and buoy data was less pronounced, and the statistical results from the difference between blue highway data and visual observations was similar to those from the difference between visual observations and buoy data. Therefore, in addition to the buoy measurements, the CWB's blue highway forecast data can also be used as a reference for surfing activity.
This study also found that surfing is an acceptable activity at Honeymoon Bay during all seasons as waves in this area are mostly spilling breakers. Therefore, this location is suitable for surfers of all skill levels.
Date of Award2014
Original languageEnglish
SupervisorZsu-Hsin Chuang (Supervisor)

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