Finite element modeling of breaking wave induced nearshore currents.

Describes a finite element model for computing the nearshore current velocity and mean free surface set-up or set-down directly. In this model, the nonlinear inertia terms and lateral turbulent diffusion terms are included. The wave characteristics including the local wave amplitude and the angle of incidence are also calculated via the semi Galerkin method. The model is verified by comparing numerical results with analytical solutions for longshore currents and rip currents. Very good agreement is obtained. The model is then applied to the case of meandering currents. The effects of inertial forces and viscous forces are examined. (from paper)