TY - JOUR
T1 - Inundation, runup and flow velocity of wavemaker generated bores on a planar beach
AU - Barranco, Ignacio
AU - Liu, Philip L.F.
N1 - Funding Information:
P.L.-F.L. would like to acknowledge the support from the National University of Singapore, Cornell University, and the Ministry of Education in Singapore through a research grant (MOE2018-T2-2-040). This research was also supported in part by the Yushan Program of the Ministry of Education in Taiwan. I.B. would like to thank the Ministry of Education in Singapore for a PhD scholarship. Insightful discussions with H. Yeh and I.M. Sou are also appreciated.
Publisher Copyright:
© The Author(s), 2023. Published by Cambridge University Press.
PY - 2023/3/25
Y1 - 2023/3/25
N2 - Undulating and breaking bores are generated in the laboratory using a programmable long-stroke wavemaker. By changing the stroke length and the speed of the wavemaker, both non-decaying and decaying bores are generated and studied. Bore strength, height and duration are measured and compared with the solutions derived by using the method of characteristics, with excellent agreement. The measurements for inundation depth, runup height and flood duration are checked with the formulas presented in Barranco & Liu (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 915, 2021). The comparisons show that the formulas are also accurate for the non-decaying bores generated by the wavemaker. The maximum inundation depth predicted by the formula for zero bore length at the beach toe agrees with the laboratory observations for decaying bores. Using a high-speed particle image velocimetry system, the ensemble-averaged velocities and fluctuating velocities under undulating bores and breaking bores are measured in constant water depth and in the vicinity of the still water shoreline. Detailed analyses of the velocity fields are presented and discussed. For the undulating bore a long quiescent flood duration is observed, while for the breaking bore the up-rush flow changes into down-rush flow almost linearly.
AB - Undulating and breaking bores are generated in the laboratory using a programmable long-stroke wavemaker. By changing the stroke length and the speed of the wavemaker, both non-decaying and decaying bores are generated and studied. Bore strength, height and duration are measured and compared with the solutions derived by using the method of characteristics, with excellent agreement. The measurements for inundation depth, runup height and flood duration are checked with the formulas presented in Barranco & Liu (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 915, 2021). The comparisons show that the formulas are also accurate for the non-decaying bores generated by the wavemaker. The maximum inundation depth predicted by the formula for zero bore length at the beach toe agrees with the laboratory observations for decaying bores. Using a high-speed particle image velocimetry system, the ensemble-averaged velocities and fluctuating velocities under undulating bores and breaking bores are measured in constant water depth and in the vicinity of the still water shoreline. Detailed analyses of the velocity fields are presented and discussed. For the undulating bore a long quiescent flood duration is observed, while for the breaking bore the up-rush flow changes into down-rush flow almost linearly.
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U2 - 10.1017/jfm.2023.116
DO - 10.1017/jfm.2023.116
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:85150373567
SN - 0022-1120
VL - 959
JO - Journal of Fluid Mechanics
JF - Journal of Fluid Mechanics
M1 - A5
ER -