Inundation, runup and flow velocity of wavemaker generated bores on a planar beach

Ignacio Barranco, Philip L.F. Liu

研究成果: Article同行評審

7 引文 斯高帕斯(Scopus)

摘要

Undulating and breaking bores are generated in the laboratory using a programmable long-stroke wavemaker. By changing the stroke length and the speed of the wavemaker, both non-decaying and decaying bores are generated and studied. Bore strength, height and duration are measured and compared with the solutions derived by using the method of characteristics, with excellent agreement. The measurements for inundation depth, runup height and flood duration are checked with the formulas presented in Barranco & Liu (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 915, 2021). The comparisons show that the formulas are also accurate for the non-decaying bores generated by the wavemaker. The maximum inundation depth predicted by the formula for zero bore length at the beach toe agrees with the laboratory observations for decaying bores. Using a high-speed particle image velocimetry system, the ensemble-averaged velocities and fluctuating velocities under undulating bores and breaking bores are measured in constant water depth and in the vicinity of the still water shoreline. Detailed analyses of the velocity fields are presented and discussed. For the undulating bore a long quiescent flood duration is observed, while for the breaking bore the up-rush flow changes into down-rush flow almost linearly.

原文English
文章編號A5
期刊Journal of Fluid Mechanics
959
DOIs
出版狀態Published - 2023 3月 25

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • 凝聚態物理學
  • 材料力學
  • 機械工業
  • 應用數學

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