TY - GEN
T1 - Lagrangian experiment and solution for progressive gravity waves on a sloping bottom
AU - Chen, Yang Yih
AU - Li, Meng-Syue
AU - Hsu, Hung Chu
PY - 2011/9/19
Y1 - 2011/9/19
N2 - A third-order asymptotic solution in Lagrangian description for nonlinear water wave propagating over a sloping beach is derived. The particle trajectories are obtained as a function of the nonlinear ordering parameter ε and the bottom slope α to the third order of perturbation. This solution enables the description of wave shoaling in the direction of wave propagation from deep to shallow water, as well as the successive deformation of wave profiles and water particle trajectories prior to breaking. A series of experiment are conducted to investigate the particle trajectories of nonlinear water wave propagating over a sloping bottom. It is shown that the present third-order asymptotic solution agrees very well with the experiments.
AB - A third-order asymptotic solution in Lagrangian description for nonlinear water wave propagating over a sloping beach is derived. The particle trajectories are obtained as a function of the nonlinear ordering parameter ε and the bottom slope α to the third order of perturbation. This solution enables the description of wave shoaling in the direction of wave propagation from deep to shallow water, as well as the successive deformation of wave profiles and water particle trajectories prior to breaking. A series of experiment are conducted to investigate the particle trajectories of nonlinear water wave propagating over a sloping bottom. It is shown that the present third-order asymptotic solution agrees very well with the experiments.
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M3 - Conference contribution
AN - SCOPUS:80052748760
SN - 9781880653968
T3 - Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference
SP - 841
EP - 846
BT - Proceedings of the 21st (2011) International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE-2011
T2 - 21st International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE-2011
Y2 - 19 June 2011 through 24 June 2011
ER -