Lagrangian nonlinear progressive water waves on sloping bottoms

Yang Yih Chen, Bin-Da Yang, Hung Chu Hsu, Meng-Syue Li, Kuei Sen Yang

研究成果: Conference contribution

2 引文 斯高帕斯(Scopus)

摘要

In this paper, a new third-order Lagrangian asymptotic solution describing nonlinear water wave propagation on the surface of a uniform sloping bottom is presented. The model is formulated in the Lagrangian variables and we use a two-parameter perturbation method to develop a new mathematical derivation. The particle trajectories, wave pressure and Lagrangian velocity potential are obtained as a function of the nonlinear wave steepness ε and the bottom slope α perturbed to third order. The analytical solution in Lagrangian form satisfies state of the normal pressure at the free surface. The condition of the conservation of mass flux is examined in detail for the first time. The two important properties in Lagrangian coordinates, Lagrangian wave frequency and Lagrangian mean level, are included in the third-order solution. The solution can also be used to estimate the mean return current for waves progressing over the sloping bottom. The Lagrangian solution untangle the description of the features of wave shoaling in the direction of wave propagation from deep to shallow water, as well as the process of successive deformation of a wave profile and water particle trajectories leading to wave breaking. Comparing the theoretical results and experimental data shows good agreement.

原文English
主出版物標題Proceedings of the 20th (2010) International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE-2010
頁面806-814
頁數9
出版狀態Published - 2010 九月 10
事件20th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE-2010 - Beijing, China
持續時間: 2010 六月 202010 六月 25

出版系列

名字Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference
3
ISSN(列印)1098-6189
ISSN(電子)1555-1792

Other

Other20th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE-2010
國家/地區China
城市Beijing
期間10-06-2010-06-25

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • 能源工程與電力技術
  • 海洋工程
  • 機械工業

指紋

深入研究「Lagrangian nonlinear progressive water waves on sloping bottoms」主題。共同形成了獨特的指紋。

引用此