Simulations of rogue waves in coastal waters: Effects of variable bathymetry

A. Sergeeva, D. J. Doong, E. Pelinovsky, T. Talipova, A. Slunyaev

研究成果: Paper

摘要

The transformation of random wave field in the shallow water of variable depth is analyzed theoretically within the framework of the variable-coefficient Korteweg - de Vries equation. The characteristic wave height varies with depth according to Green's law, and this follows rigorously from the theoretical model. The skewness and kurtosis are computed, and it is shown that they grow when the depth decreases, and simultaneously the wave state deviates from the Gaussian. The probability of large-amplitude (rogue) waves increases within the transition zone. The characteristics of this process depend on the wave steepness, which is characterized in terms of the Ursell parameter. The obtained results show that the number of rogue waves may deviate significantly from the value expected for a flat bottom of a given depth. Evolution of waves propagating onshore is studied by means of numerical simulations of two different depth-dependent models. The depth and wave conditions correspond to buoys situated in the vicinity of Taiwanese coast, and records of rogue waves retrieved by them. The simulations inform about the change of wave appearance while they approach the coast, evolution of spectral and statistical characteristics. The reconstruction helps to answer the essential question about the lifetime of rogue waves; this is a poorly studied issue, which desires particular study with use of natural data. The paper reports preliminary results of this investigation.

原文English
頁面481-497
頁數17
出版狀態Published - 2012 一月 1
事件6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012 - Keelung, Taiwan
持續時間: 2012 九月 232012 九月 29

Other

Other6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012
國家Taiwan
城市Keelung
期間12-09-2312-09-29

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • Ocean Engineering
  • Water Science and Technology

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  • 引用此

    Sergeeva, A., Doong, D. J., Pelinovsky, E., Talipova, T., & Slunyaev, A. (2012). Simulations of rogue waves in coastal waters: Effects of variable bathymetry. 481-497. 論文發表於 6th Chinese-German Joint Symposium on Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, CGJOINT 2012, Keelung, Taiwan.