Transformation of progressive waves propagating obliquely on gentle slope

Yang Yih Chen, Bin Da Yang, Lin Wu Tang, Shan Hwei Ou, John R.C. Hsu

研究成果: Article同行評審

20 引文 斯高帕斯(Scopus)

摘要

This paper reports the results of a new mathematical derivation for the transformation of a progressive wave propagating obliquely on a gentle slope. On the basis of the conservation principle of wave motion and in a wave-ray coordinate system, an explicit expression for the velocity potential of the wave field is derived as a function of the bottom slope a perturbed to α second order in an Eulerian coordinate system. Wave profile is then obtained in the Lagrangian system. Together, these enable the description of the features of wave shoaling and refraction in the direction of wave propagation from deep to shallow water, particularly, the process of successive deformation of a wave profile.

原文English
頁(從 - 到)162-169
頁數8
期刊Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering
130
發行號4
DOIs
出版狀態Published - 2004 七月 1

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • 土木與結構工程
  • 水科學與技術
  • 海洋工程

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